It was the “Below the Sea” Tour which attracted my attention. Over the years I have seen quite a bit of the canal network but I have never headed east. So I put my name down to join at Salters Lode and also for familiarisation at the Braunston weekend.

My participation at Braunston was complicated by dropping my son at Coventry for a familiarisation visit – he will be a fresher at Warwick University this autumn. So by the time I arrived the show was on the road – and what a show! “President” and “Kildare” were but two of dozens of boats manoeuvring round the restricted canal system at Braunston. A joy for the photographer but a significant challenge for those trying to navigate full length narrow boats; or worse still pairs of full length narrow boats. To add to the interest “President” and “Kildare” were conveying the VIP party including, of course, Sonia Rolt. I think they all had a good day. It was certainly an educational outing for me.

Over the following weeks I followed the boats’ progress via our web site. The photos of flooded locks on the River Nene told the sad story all too graphically. It must have been a hard decision to cancel the trip to the National, but it is hard to argue against it.

As the summer progressed the two week trip to Shackerstone and back was mooted. By happy chance it coincided with the week I had originally offered. I first met the Ashby canal some years ago when I used to work in Leicester and overnight in Market Bosworth. At that time it was a very quiet backwater which ambled past Bosworth Field on its way from who knows where to the back of beyond.

At first glance the week looks a leisurely affair. Seven low mileage days, clearly we are due to take our time with plenty of opportunities for static display of our historic boats. WRONG! Horribly wrong!

The first thing to learn with a coal-fired boat is that the day starts early. Very early indeed for the Driver, in our case Bluebell Railway based George Hopkins. His day begins before the dawn; perhaps at 05.30. By the time he has raised steam the rest of the crew need to be up, breakfasted and have the boats ready for the off.

Hidden behind “Kildare’s” traditional sheets are some modern facilities; bunks, a well-equipped small kitchen and a basic toilet. However this is a traditional narrow boat not a floating hotel; progressing from one end to the other demands the skills o a limbo dancer. Mind your head!

After the rains of the early summer we can, at least, be sure of adequate water levels, surely? Wrong again! The long Birmingham level is a couple of inches down, presumably because a lot of boaters had decided to enjoy the late summer weather and proceed down the various locks which exit this level. A couple of inches don’t matter much to craft of shallow draft but “President” draws three feet. We seem to stick in every bridge! In almost every case our progress ceases just as the stern of “President” clears the bridge. A major challenge for Captain Neil Ratcliffe who has to supervise our efforts to regain deeper water. Also very frustrating for those who have turned out to help us down Lapworth locks.

With a six man crew there are always three people on duty – one on each tiller plus the Driver. When no locks loom the rest of the crew may find time to prepare tea, coffee or a snack. This must then be dispensed to both boats. This involves traversing “Kildare’s” rear cabin. A romantic reminder of traditional boating but with low headroom. MIND YOUR HEAD! Too late. It is just as well that we routinely wear flat hats!

The basic rule when locking is to keep the boat moving. Working two boats speedily but safely requires special skills. There are differences going up hill and down and, of course, in broad locks and narrow locks. Regulars like Brian Empsall understand the nuances but I still have a lot to learn.

I have steered a narrow boat so steering “President” or “Kildare” should be fairly straightforward? Wrong again. My previous experience should have taught me this. We once hired a converted Ice Breaker which, being deep drafted, sometimes had a mind of its own. I also have limited experience of steering a horse drawn narrow boat; where the main hazards are the lack of brakes and the wind. “President” and “Kildare” have many more lessons to teach. On “President” the basic rule is don’t cut corners. You must stay on the outside where the deep water lies. On “Kildare” there are different techniques. I have a competent tutor in the person of Pat Empsall who points out that the steerer on the butty can greatly reduce (or magnify) the effort required on “President’s” tiller. On tight corners the butty helps by initially steering the ‘wrong’ way, which at first seems wrong but certainly works.

At the end of the day a modern boat has little to do beyond mooring up. It is a shade different for “President” and “Kildare”. Smoke and dust get everywhere; since the canal twists and turns and speed is low there is no part of either vessel that escapes. So we must mop down every flat surface, polish the brasses and so on. If you want to get really dirty you can take your turn at moving coal towards the engine room. Fortunately Malcolm Dunlop seems to have beaten me to this; he is as black as the Ace of Spades and as happy as a sandboy. Mind your head down there Malcolm.

I hope that gives you some flavour of a ‘leisurely’ week! Would I come again? Oh yes, if you will have me.

Chris Smyth

Detailed trip schedule